“How To” documents explaining how to install many of the RTE Welding & Fabrication products.
Please read these directions several times while going through a dry run on your Rover. The actual body lift is easy once you understand the due process and areas on your Rover pertaining to the body lift. If after reading the directions you have questions please call us at RTE. Having a friend or helper to assist will help in the process.
Pictured below are the body lift components:
Starting at the right side:
- 10 body mount cylinders
- 10 Lake Erie body mount bolts w/locking nuts 6 – 3/8-24 x 5 ½” and 4-3/8-24 x 6”
- 4 seat belt tension frame mount replacements
- 4 stainless steel cotter pins for seat belt frame mount clevis pins
- T/C shifter extension
- 2 radiator mount extensions
- steering shaft weld collar (Steel for RR’ers, Alum for Discos)
- replacement push pins for Disco only rear bumper trim
Have an experienced welder or welding shop available to lengthen your steering shaft. The following section is devoted to the steering shaft sequence.
Familiarize yourself with the 10 body mount points and 4 seat belt frame attachment points.
10 body mount points, 5 points each side as listed:
- At front of frame
- In engine compartment in front of the firewall
- At frame extension under the front door hinge area
- At the frame extension under passenger door
- At the rear of frame
4 seat belt attachment points:
- 1st set inside the frame directly under the rear seat footwell
- 2nd set inside of frame directly under the rear passenger seat belt attachment points
Your radiator is attached to the frame and the radiator shroud is attached to the radiator so these will stay stationary with the frame. The front shroud/cooling fan assembly will rise with the body but is of no consequence.
Do not attempt a body lift with more than 1/2 a tank full of gas. Familiarize yourself with all motor to frame grounding wires so you can monitor these during the body lift having ample slack in these lines. If they do not have suitable slack you may relocate to a higher point on the frame but we have not seen this as a necessity as of yet. There will be a ground from your starter to your frame and from the battery to the motor.
Check the condition of the 10 body rubber pucks for possible replacement if cracking or collapsed. If any look bad have them ready when doing your body lift as they will be accessible to replace.
Now we are ready to begin the actual body lift
Remove the front bumper, grill, and rear bumper.
Disco’s: Remove the plastic dress strip that runs from under rear door atop the rear bumper. You will have to punch out the plastic push clamps to do this. This will allow for socket access to the rear frame mounting bolts. On RR’ers this is not required as access to these bolts is accessible. New push pins are included in the kit for Discos for re-assembly.
Loosen the lower gas fill hose clamp being careful not to splash gas onto you or the floor. If any is spilled wipe up immediately
Install your T/C shifter extension at this point. Pop the shifter boot off using a small screwdriver. Unscrew the shifter knob and remove the boot. Screw the new aluminum extension onto the T/C shaft being careful not to cross thread until it locks itself in position. Tighten using a wrench on the 2 flats on the extension until tight. Re-attach the shifting knob by screwing down until tight. install the boot back into its normal position.
Remove the 2 top radiator brackets that position and steady the radiator. These are found each side of the radiator top bolted to the radiator bulkhead. Save the brackets and bolts for re-assembly when finished.
This is the most important part of the lifting process.Here is where you will need professional welding services. Remove the heat wrap shield from your steering shaft if there. On your steering shaft, you will see a splined universal coupling at the bottom connecting the steering shaft to the steering box. At the top end, you will see a rubber coupling universal that connects the top of the steering shaft to the steering wheel shaft. Before dis-assembly have your tires straight ahead and the steering wheel in its normal “straight line” position. You must maintain this position because losing the position of the wheel will cause internal wires inside the steering column to twist or wrap around the steering column shaft which will result in steering lock or ripping of wire connectors. You do not want to lose this relative position and end up in a full turn out of sequence. Remove the locking cross bolt at the top end of the steering shaft coupling at the firewall. Remove the 2 locking cross bolts at the lower universal spline connection. Now slide, may need tapping, the steering shaft downwards toward the steering box until the upper end of the steering shaft is free. You will now be able to tap upwards at the lower coupling until the shaft is totally free. Check the rubber coupling to ensure the rubber is still usable. If cracking and separating replace the rubber coupling.
The following is performed by your welding service:
Scribe a line down the middle of the steering shaft and measure the overall length of the shaft. You will be extending the overall shaft length by 5/8”. The scribed line permits visual alignment of the 2 ends to each other.
Split the shaft in the blank middle section of the shaft. Place the ends of the split shafts into the furnished welding sleeve. You will now make sure the scribed lines are in line while setting the 5/8” extended length.
Tighten the 2 ea. 1/4” set screws using a 1/8” Allen wrench. Check alignment of the scribed lines and 5/8” increase in overall length. This assembly can now be welded together as a unit using professional welding procedures. This unit can now be set aside for later assembly.
This is the steering shaft after welding coupling in place.
Lifting the body
Remove the 10 nuts attaching the body mounting bolts to the frame starting at the front and working to the rear. These nuts will all unscrew from the bottom. Access to the bolt heads is by lifting of the carpet inside the body. Remove the nuts from the 4 seat belt frame extensions making sure to save all rubber sleeves and washers for re-assembly. Next, to the floor pan above the seat belt tensioners remove the cotter pins that hold the clevis pin in place. New stainless steel cotter pins are included in the kit for replacement. Slide(tap) out the clevis pins and remove the tensioners by lifting up and out.Wire brush and clean the clevis pins for reassembly. At this point, you are ready to lift the body.
Lifting the body is a simple process. If you have sliders place a 2x4x4 long under the center part of the main slider beam and support by 2 jack stands placed under the 2×4’s.
If you don’t have sliders place the 2×4’s under the sill bottom. On the opposite side place a 2×4 under the slider/sill and raise a floor jack against the 2×4. Raise the floor jack approx. 3” lifting the body off the frame mounts. During this lifting stay watchful of brake lines, ground lines, A/C lines, etc. We have lifted Disco’s and RR’ers with no consequence to these areas but it is advised to monitor these points as you lift the truck. After lifting 1 side you may now remove the 5 body mount bolts. Place the aluminum spacers on top the lower frame mounts keeping the rubber cushions on top of the new spacers. The new longer body mounting bolts will have to be placed as follows working from the front to rear.
- 1st bolt 3/8-24 x 5 ½” insert from the top down
- 2nd bolt 3/8-24 x 5 ½”insert from the bottom up
- 3rd bolt 3/8-24 x 51/2” insert from the top down
- 4th bolt 3/8-24 x 6”insert from the bottom up
- 5th bolt 3/8-24 x 6”insert from the bottom up
As you insert the bolts you are inserting into an angled hole as the truck is lifted one side. You may have to wiggle and tap some of the bolts through. After inserting the bolts hand screw the NyLoc nuts onto the bolts to keep them in place. Do not tighten at this time. Lower the floor jack and the 2 jack stands.
Reverse sides and do the opposite side following the 1st side procedure.
With all the spacers in place, you can now tighten the body mount bolts with the truck sitting on the tires with all jacks removed. Tighten very firmly being careful not to crush the rubber cushions. The new bolts are GR 8 Lake Erie bolts which are more than ample strength wise.
Retighten the gas fill hose clamp. Now is a good time to check the condition of the fill hose and clamps. Replace if necessary.
Seat Belt Tensioners
Assemble the new seat belt tensioners sliding in from the top with the thick washer and upper rubber grommet in place. Place the lower grommet and 7/16” locking nuts on. Place the clevis pin through the top hole of the under floor bracket and through the holes of the new tensioners. To get the pin in and through the holes you may have to tighten the locking nuts to compress the rubber grommets to where the holes line up. Use the new stainless steel cotter pins to secure the clevis pins in place. Tighten the lock nuts firmly but not too tightly which would pull the floor pan down.
Under the hood
Re-assemble the steering shaft first bolting the rubber universal coupling in at the top joint. Now slide the lower splined universal coupling onto the steering box shaft and tighten securely making sure you have maintained your steering wheel location. If you are off a spline tooth or two, you need only to adjust your drag link to center your steering wheel. Double check the tightness of the steering shaft bolts then re-install your heat shield.
Place the 2 radiator mount extensions on top of the radiator mounting pins. Re-assemble the 2 upper mounting brackets onto the extension pin tops and install the bracket bolts securing the radiator in place.
Assemble the front bumper, grill, and rear bumper. Take a moment to make sure you have completed all steps.
Your bumpers will now be 2” lower to the body as they are attached to the frame. These can be altered to match using your creativity or fabrication shop services.
In no way will this body lift affect any driveline angles, caster relations or steering issues.
If you have any questions before or after installation, please give us at RTE Welding & Fabrication 704.635.7305 or contact us via email. We can make our front bumper products to match the 2” body lift.
Raise the rear of the vehicle and safely support the frame with proper jack stands.
Remove the rear tires on both sides of the vehicle
Make sure that the ignition key is turned to the off position and removed and proceed to the air compressor. The air compressor is located underneath the driver’s side doors in a black box secured to the frame. Remove the 2 screws on the face of the box and pull off the cover.
Behind the cover, you will find 3 brass fittings. These are the fittings that attach the airlines to the bags.
Loosen (but do NOT remove the fittings) the innermost and outermost fittings until you hear the fittings begin to hiss. At this point, you are deflating the air bags. As the bags deflate, use a jack stand to push the axle up to the bump stops to aid in the deflation of the bags. DO NOT try and raise the car off the jack stands. The purpose of using the floor jack is just to deflate the bag.
Once the axle is pushed all the way up to the bump stops, and the bags are deflated, move to the driver’s side wheel well. If you are replacing the shock absorbers, remove the upper and lower bolt from the factory shock absorber now and discard the factory shock.
The SLS spacer fits between the airbag and the axle housing. You are NOT going to completely remove the airbag. To free the bag from the axle housing, grab the airbag housing at the bottom and rotate 90°. If you are unable to rotate the bag that far, either the bag is still pressurized or the axle needs to be raised or lowered. Once the lower end of the bag is free, you can install the SLS spacer.
The SLS spacer installs with the narrow end of the spacer towards the front of the car.
Secure the SLS spacer to the axle housing using the supplied 5/16” hardware. Loctite is recommended on the retaining bolts but is not necessary.
Install the airbag onto the SLS spacer by twisting the bag 90° and placing it into the top of the spacer. The bag should return to its relaxed stated and be secured into the spacer. Confirm that the bag is attached to the spacer.
Next, install the ride height adjuster tabs. These tabs attach to the rear radius arms and adjust the ride height of the car.
Attach the straight drilled hole onto the radius arm and the adjuster arm onto the slotted portion of the tab using the supplied ¼” hardware. Set the tab with the adjuster all the way at the very bottom of the travel. This will set the ride height at its lowest point.
If you are replacing the shock absorbers, install the new shocks at this point.
Proceed to the opposite side of the car and repeat steps.
Once the spacer and tabs have been installed on both sides of the vehicle, tighten the compressor fittings that you loosened in step 5. Leave the top off of the compressor tray for the time being.
Reinstall the tires and remove the jack and jack stands from underneath the vehicle. At this time, the car is sitting on its bump stops.
Climb into the driver’s seat. Close the door. This is important as the SLS system will not level without the door closed. With your foot on the brake, start the car. The air compressor should turn on and start filling the air bags. Let the car idle for a few minutes, confirming that the bags are re-inflating. Once the compressor turns off, turn off the car. At this time, confirm that the fittings on the compressor are not leaking. If the car is holding its height and the fittings are not leaking air, reinstall the cover over the compressor.
Drive the car around the block and double check the torque on lug nuts and the SLS spacers. Once torque is confirmed, you can set the ride height. Ride height is adjusted by raising or lowering the adjuster tabs you installed in steps 11 and 12. In order to set the ride height, raise the tab to increase height. The ride height will increase about an 1” for each ¼” of adjustment. Set both sides the same with the car turned off. NOTE: The car must be started in order for the adjusters to change the height. Do not adjust the height with the vehicle running.
Torque Spec on the SLS 5/16-18 x 1 ¼ axle bolts 25ft lbs. Torque Spec on the front lower shock mount using factory style shocks 40ftlbs, on the front upper tower and rear upper and lower shock bolts 92ftlbs.
If you have any questions before or after installation, please give us a call at 704.635.7305 or contact us via email.
Measure wheelbase with the vehicle on level ground and record length before removing any components.
If the wheelbase is not going to be changed a brace can be welded from the axle to the chassis holding the position of the axle during install.
Check pinion angle with magnetic angle gauge and record measurement.
Remove factory link on one side only. Cut stock bracket from the frame being careful not to cut into the frame. Grind the frame smooth and clean off any paint prior to welding.
Test fit the frame bracket.
The body support bracket will need to be notched, so as to not interfere with the rear links during articulation.
Mount new link to the axle.
Thread Curry Joint into link slightly past halfway.
Install Curry Joint into mounting bracket and thread in horizontal bolt through bracket and CJ loosely.
Place bracket onto the frame and clamp securely.
Tack weld bracket onto the frame.
Remove opposite side link and follow steps 3-8 before tack welding.
Recheck pinion angle and wheel center.
If all measurements check out you can now weld brackets securely.
Tighten the ¾ bolts securely at this time.
The RTE Welding & Fabrication Differential Guard is a direct weld-on component designed to help protect the vital differential components. We recommend employing a qualified welder or welding shop for proper installation.
To install, first remove paint 1” to 1 ½” down from the top corners and 1” to 1 ½” at the bottom of the guard to achieve a clean, quality weld.
The diff guards must be welded to axle housing NOT the axle pan or cover. Start by placing the guard on the diff level with the axle housing.
At the top right, top left and bottom of the guard, mark the axle housing where the powder coating had been previously removed. Remove the paint from the axle housing at the marked locations. At this point, tack the guard into place. Check the filler plug for alignment with the opening.
Permanently weld the diff guard into place.
The welds need only be 1 to 1 ½” in length.
The diff guard has been painted and can be retouched with Rust-Oleum flat protective enamel once welded in place.
It is recommended to drain and replace gear oil after welding.
The ground clamp must be as close to the area to be welded as possible, clamped directly to the axle housing. In the rear, the sway bar brackets provide a good surface and the open panhard rod bracket on the front works well.
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RTE Slimline Front Bumper. We are proud to offer the strongest, highest quality bumper available anywhere and are certain of your satisfaction for years to come.
Your new bumper will come with all required hardware:
- 4 ea ½” x 4.5” long GR8 HH Bolts
- 2 ea ½” x 5” long GR8 Bolt
- 6 ea ½” GR8 Hex Nuts (nylock)
- 12 ea ½” GR8 Flat Washers
Your first step will be to remove your original bumper. This is a fairly straightforward exercise, requiring that you remove any of the screws attaching trim to the bumper and the bolts attaching the bumper to the frame.
For the Disco II, you can now relocate your washer bottle assembly if you choose, or paint it flat black to hide it.
After bumper removal ream the frame mounting holes with a ½” drill bit. After reaming, check to make sure a ½” bolt will go thru all 4 holes.
The bumper attachment at the washer side of the car will also need to be removed or simply saw the bolt off for bumper assembly.
You may now install your bumper. Place a floor jack with a block of wood to lift the bumper into place. Have a friend close by to steady the bumper as you lift it into place.
The mounting ears on the bumpers are jig positioned for accuracy. If you need to slightly open these ears use a block of wood and a heavy mallet to spread open as needed. If this is needed it is a very slight adjustment.
Attach the bumper to the frame using the existing frame holes with the included 5” x ½” bolts. After positioning the bumper to be straight and correct looking tighten to hold the bumper into place.
Using a long ½” drill bit, drill the two vertical bolt hole using the bumper as a drill jig. Drill this hole up and thru the bottom and top of the frame horn and then insert a ½” bolt.
This assures your bumper will not have rotation issues.
To install the winch, first, remove the grille from the vehicle. Once removed, place the winch in the tray, center the cable spool with the opening and tighten the winch mounting bolts according to the manufacturers recommended torque specs. Attach the hawse or roller fairlead as well.
Following the installation of the winch, begin to trim the grille to fit. The best tools for the job are a jigsaw or saber saw, and a die grinder with a sanding wheel. For the most precise fit, trim a little at a time, test fitting repeatedly. Once you’re finished and satisfied with the fit of the grille, reinstall permanently.
Your bumper finish can be touched up using Rustoleum Flat Protective Enamel spray paint. This matches the powder coat finish perfectly.
- ½” Drive Socket Set
- Floor jack
- Small piece of wood
- Long Screwdriver
First, make certain that you have a minimal amount of gas in the tank. The lighter the tank, the easier this job will be. Next, loosen (but do not remove yet) the 4 bolts holding the factory gas tank support.
Wedge a long tool (ie… hammer, long screwdriver) inside the driver’s side sway bar bracket to hold up the tank as the bolts are loosened — make sure you will be able to pull the tool out when you’re done!!!.
Note that the bolts near the hitch are captured and do not require a wrench on the backside, however, the bolts above the rear axle do require a box wrench on top to loosen.
Make certain that the tank is supported then remove the four bolts. Once the factory piece is removed, clean the bottom of the tank to help prevent corrosion.
Place the skid, with the taller of the two ends towards the front of the vehicle, onto floor jack.
Angle the skid up towards the hitch first. There is a small lip on the back of the hitch that you must clear first to get everything lined up.
Raise the skid plate up until you can start the two front bolts with supplied hardware.
Then, remove the support and push the rear of the skid into place, and loosely install the rear bolts. Now remove the tool that you are using to hold the tank in place.
Only after all 4 bolts have been loosely installed, should you go ahead and tighten them all down snuggly.
- ½” Drive Socket Set -18mm, 15mm
- Floor jack
- Small piece of wood
- Long Screwdriver
First, make certain that you have a minimal amount of gas in the tank. The lighter the tank, the easier this job will be. Next, loosen (but do not remove yet) the 2 bolts and 2 nuts holding the factory gas tank support.
Wedge a long tool (ie… hammer, long screwdriver) inside the driver’s side tie-down loop to hold up the tank as the bolts are loosened — make sure you will be able to pull the tool out when you’re done!!!.
Note that the bolts near the hitch are captured and do not require a wrench on the backside, however, there is the potential that you may need to put a wrench on the capture nut to keep it from spinning. Loosen the bolts but do not remove.
Make certain that the tank is supported then remove the two bolts at the hitch end and the two nuts at the axle end of the skid.
Once the factory piece is removed, clean the bottom of the tank to help prevent corrosion.
Place the skid, with the taller of the two ends towards the front of the vehicle, onto floor jack.
Angle the skid up towards the hitch first. There is a small lip on the back of the hitch that you must clear first to get everything lined up.
Raise the skid plate up until you can start the two nuts by the axle end with original hardware.
Then, move the jack to the area of the skid under the hitch and push the rear of the skid into place. Loosely install the rear bolts. Only after both bolts and both nuts have been loosely installed, should you go ahead and tighten them all down snuggly.
This installation pertains to either the front or rear skid plates. The process is the same for all the leaf springs.
First, jack up the vehicle and support with jack stands on the frame. You can still perform this process one plate at a time but the important thing to remember is to support the vehicle on the frame (not the axle).
Since most folks do not have access to a lift, the process is much easier (and give you more room) if you remove the tire. This is not a requirement but can make the task easier.
Now remove the four nuts holding the plate onto the axle and leaf spring. With a hammer or a pry bar, remove the plate. There will be a small rectangular piece of metal that may come off too. That is normal but remember to put it back in place during the install. Depending on the shape of your bolts, this can be quite a task unless you have an impact wrench. Once completed, your axle should hang on top of the leaf spring. Now is a good time to inspect your u-bolts. If the threads look thin or the bolts are bent, you may want to replace them. Bent u-bolts will make it extremely difficult when putting the new plate back on. The holes may not line up correctly.
Did we mention to inspect the u-bolts? Yes, this is very important. After inspecting the u-bolts (or replacing with new ones), inset the u-bolts over the axle next to the leaf spring. Grab your new skid plate. Yes, there is a right and a left along with a front and a rear. Place the skid plate through the u-bolts and attach the original washers and nuts (or new ones if you have replaced the u-bolts). There are oversized holes at the bottom of the skid plate that will allow you to use a socket when tightening the nuts back on. You first need to put them on by hand and then use a socket or impact wrench to tighten them down. Make sure when you tighten them, you really crank them down. You do not want these to come loose.
Once the skid plate is in place, you need to reattach the shock absorber. We implemented a better way to attach the shocks to the skid plate. No longer are they held on with a cotter pin. Now you insert a bolt and are able to tighten them up. You will need to have the sleeve that came with your shocks. If you do not have them, no worries as we sell a sleeve that will fit. You will also need the original shock cone washers. If you do not have those, you should be able to pick them up at any local auto parts store. With all the parts in place, stick the bolt through the bottom of the shock and into the shock mount. The nut should NOT be facing the tire. You can actually put the bolt in either way but on some tires, the differential will get in the way. It is best to start from the tire side. With bolt through the cone washer, shock sleeve and shock, and the other cone washer, push the bolt through, attach the washer and the nut and tighten it down. You cannot overtighten this nut/bolt since the sleeve will prevent the bushing from squeezing too tight.
Now repeat this process for the other leaf plates and you are done.
Looking at the stock lower shock mount you will see an angled U bracket welded to the axle housing angling down. Notice how it angles outwards toward the tire. After removing the shock you will see 2 metal cups on the top and bottom of this bracket. These cups are spot welded on and serve the purpose of retaining the stock shock rubber bushings. First thing is to remove these 2 cups. A large hammer and chisel or an air chisel will work fine to remove these, as they are spot welded in place. After removing these 2 cups you will see the 5/8” diameter hole left through the bracket. The new lower shock bracket will bolt in this location.
To assemble the shock mounts and shocks to the truck this procedure works best. The angled part of the upper bracket faces towards the back of the vehicle. The lower bracket works best if you slightly angle it when mounting so as to have it neither parallel nor perpendicular to the axle. You are now ready to install onto the vehicle.
The A-Arm Extension will correct the rear pinion angle to accommodate a Double Cardan rear drive shaft. Additionally, it will correct pinion angle for a standard single u-joint/ u-joint driveshaft if used in conjunction with adjustable rear links.
The a-arm extension is oriented in the vehicle so that the holes are towards the rear of the car. Position the a-arm extension with the ears over the swivel housing, attached to the axle. Place the bolts (1/2”x13 4.5”) through the holes, but leave loose.
Attach the a-arm to the top of the extension. The rear most holes adjust the pinion a minimum of about 3 degrees. These typically work with the single cardan or (STD U-Joint drive shaft).
The forward set of upper mounting holes will give you about 6 degrees of adjustment, These are typically needed for the Double Cardon shaft alignment. Install the bolts (1/2”x13 6.5”) in the a-arm extension. Tighten all 4 bolts.
If used in conjunction with our rear links the typical spacers used would be the ½” and the 3/8” for either setting.
Remove the rear spring.
Insert cone on the bottom side of upper spring seat with the mouth of the cone facing outward. Place the threaded plate on top of the spring perch and using the hardware provided, tighten cone in place making sure it is in the middle of the spring perch opening.
Install the spring and check for contact between the spring and cone. There should be clearance (if the spring makes contact with the cone – it will create noise).
The cones can be tweaked to prevent contact to the spring by using a crescent wrench. Simply bend the edge of the cone to gain clearance. You may have to raise the chassis to gain access to the edge of the cone if tweaking is necessary.
When the cone makes contact with the spring during articulation, noise will be audible. This is normal.
Remove the existing rear bumper. Notice the frame horns that will need to be removed.
A Sawzall with a metal cutting blade is the best tool for removing the frame horns, a large grinding wheel may be used as well.
Remove the horns grinding flush on top and front with the mounting pad. At this point spray the exposed metal with a good paint or undercoat.
The sheet metal around the rear quarter panels will have to be sawn to accommodate the rear quarter skids. Mark the panels dimensionally as shown below. Use any good sharp reciprocating-style saw to remove material. A fine tooth saw works best, as this is thin aluminum you are cutting.
Remove the rear mud flap panels both sides by removing the 3 upper bolts inside the rear upper wheel. I will grind these off with a 4” sanding disc, as they are just riveted heads on the exposed side.
Next saw off the rear brace for the now removed mud flap panel leaving on the gas fill side enough brace to support the gas overflow line.
At this time bolt in the new bumper front quarter braces by using the supplied bolts into the same 3 holes. Notice these plates are RH and LH. The 2 slots in the lower bent leg will be the bolting point for the rear quarter skids during the bumper assembly (Driver side is shown).
This bumper is made to provide a rear skid behind the tire. To keep this skid area intact you will have to replace the rear bulky resonator with a straight pipe extension. If you desire to leave the resonator on you will need to notch the skid area to fit the resonator. You will most likely knock the resonator off when wheeling as it will be exposed so we do recommend replacing it with an extension.
Now slide the bumper in from the rear of the truck up to and below the front quarter braces. Install 1 of the ¼” bolts each side in the slotted holes using a screwdriver to position the slots to where the bolts pass thru the slots but do not tighten them. Put on the flat washers and nut and just finger tighten. Now start the rear 5/8” bumper bolts and the remaining mud flap bolts. Tighten the rear 5/8” bolts first and then all the remaining bolts.
This picture shows a weldment at the lower quarter panels but we now use bolts as noted in the assembly instructions to make the assembly easier and to allow for variations in the trucks.
- 4 – ¼”x 5 7/8” flat bar retainers – Straight Drilled
- 2 – 3/8” x 6” flat bar threaded retainers
- 4 – 3/8” x 2 1/4” Bolts
LOWER SPRING RETAINER:
Upon installation of the rear spring, place the lower spring retainer (1/4” flat bar – straight drilled) on top of the last loop of the coil, through the axle spring plate. Secure with axle hardware.
UPPER SPRING RETAINERS:
After securing the lower spring retainer, place the threaded plate above the spring bucket on the frame. With the coil in place, insert the supplied bolts through the straight drilled ¼” plate and place the plate at the top of the coil, sandwiching the coil pigtail between the plate and the frame. Position inside retainer to align with the coil at the closest point, the retainer can be positioned parallel or perpendicular to the chassis.
Thread the bolts into the upper plate and torque the bolts until they’re secure.
Unpack your rock sliders and review these instructions completely before beginning to mount the rock sliders. These instructions were prepared using a Discovery Series II as the project vehicle and the photographs depict a Discovery Series II. Except where noted, these instructions are equally applicable to installation of your rock sliders on a Discovery Series I.
To install your rock sliders properly, you will require:
- high-speed drill
- 1/2″ drill bit (8″ long)
- 1/4″ drill bit (8″ long)
- 3/8″ drill bit
- 1/4″ drill guide (furnished with rock sliders)
- expansion tool for the RivNuts (furnished with rock sliders)
- two clamps
- socket set and spanners
- floor or bottle jack
- eye protection
The broom and eye protection are mandatory. During several stages of the installation, you will be required to lie on your back while under the vehicle. Use the broom to sweep away any fallen dirt and metal shavings (remember, you will be drilling numerous holes into the sills) before you lie down on your back. The eye protection is required to prevent debris getting into your eyes, especially when you are drilling and hammering while under the vehicle.
Before installing your rock sliders, do yourself a favor and thoroughly clean the underside of your vehicle with a garden hose. Remove as much caked-on mud and other debris that you can. To install your rock sliders, you will have to hammer numerous RivNuts into the vehicle’s sills, even from the underside of the vehicle. Removing as much debris as possible from the underside of the vehicle will go a long way toward preventing dirt from getting into your eyes when working (and hammering) under your vehicle.
If your vehicle is a Discovery Series II, you must first remove the mud flaps to permit removal of the plastic sill guards and installation of the rock sliders. If you own a Discovery Series I, you may install your rock sliders with the mud flaps attached. The front mud flaps on the Discovery Series II are affixed to the plastic sill guards by two Philips-head wood screws.
Unscrew the two wood screws and remove the steel clamping plate beneath the screws. The mud flaps are held to the vehicle’s underbody by three hex nuts. Remove the hex nuts and the mud flap should fall away. With the front mud flaps removed, you are ready to remove the plastic sill guards.
On the Discovery Series II, the plastic sill guards are held in place by:
- a threaded hex nut in the forward area,
- 10 expanding plastic grommets in the middle area, and
- a threaded plastic cap at the rear area.
Un-thread the forward hex nut securing the forward portion of the plastic sill guards to the front fender. For the Discovery Series I, the plastic sill guards are held in place with grommets only.
To remove the expanding plastic grommets on the Discovery Series II, use a screwdriver to pry away the expanding plug. Great force is not necessary and the center plugs remove easily.
The Discovery Series I employs one-piece plastic grommets can you can carefully pry away using a flat screwdriver.
On the Discovery Series II, use the same screwdriver to pry away the outer portion of the plastic grommets. As with the center plugs, the outer plugs remove easily.
For the threaded cap in the very rear of the plastic sill guards on the Discovery Series II, simply unscrew it. Retain the threaded plastic cap, as you will reinstall it after mounting your rock sliders.
After removal of the hex nut, the plastic grommets, and the plastic threaded cap, the plastic sill guards should fall away from the vehicle. Take this time to clean the sill areas of any caked-on debris.
From the lowest portion of the front fender of the Discovery Series II emanates a small threaded stud. This stud previously secured the forward portion of the plastic stills and must be removed to permit the rock sliders to situate properly.
Situate your floor jack so that the rock sliders remain balanced on the jack without other support. You will use the floor jack to hold the rock sliders tightly against the vehicle’s sills. Accordingly, you want the jack to support the rock sliders in the middle to ensure a good clamping action against the vehicle.
Raise the floor jack and the rock sliders until there is no perceptible slack between the vehicle’s sills and the rock sliders. While raising the floor jack and rock sliders, take care to align the fore and aft adjustment of the rock sliders relative to the edges of the wheel wells. You will have to reposition the floor jack several times while jacking due to the rock sliders’ moving outward as the arm of the floor jack rises axially. If your floor jack will not reach, place a thick object such as a pallet or some thick books under the floor jack.
With the floor jack raised fully, there should no vertical play between the rock sliders and the vehicle’s sills. To eliminate any horizontal play between the rock sliders and the sills, you will have to clamp the lateral mounting plates of the rock sliders against the vehicle’s sills.
You will require a pair of large clamps. Heavy-duty C-clamps are best, but almost any large clamps you have on hand will suffice.
Tightly clamp the rock sliders to the vehicle’s sills to eliminate any lateral play. If you perceive a gap between the rock sliders and the vehicle’s sills but the rock sliders will not move, very slightly lower the floor jack to permit the proper movement. You will achieve the best results by switching back and forth between horizontal and vertical clamping movements while tapping lightly on the ends of the rock sliders for the correct fore and aft placement of the rock sliders.
An exact and correct positioning of the rock sliders against the vehicle’s sills is required because you will use the 1/2″ holes in the rock sliders as guides for drilling the mounting holes. Do not hesitate to begin the fitting process over again if you believe you can achieve a better fit by doing so.
Here is a view of the rock sliders properly clamped. Note that the holes in the rock sliders do not exactly correspond with the pre-existing holes in the vehicle’s sills. This is of little importance as you will shortly drill your own 1/2″ holes into the sills.
Using a 1/2″ bit, drill into the three upper holes on the forward portion of the rock slider, and into the rearmost hole of the two holes in the rearward portion of the rock slider. Be aware of any fore and aft movement of the sliders during drilling, as the bit may want to crawl toward and into the pre-existing holes. If the rock sliders do move, stop drilling and re-clamp the rock sliders to the vehicle in the correct position.
When you have drilled the four required 1/2″ holes, remove the rock sliders from the vehicle.
With the rock sliders removed, you are ready to insert the RivNuts into the four 1/2″ holes you just drilled.
A RivNut tool is included with your rock sliders. You will use this tool numerous times during installation of the rock sliders, so be sure to lubricate the tool lightly to prevent galling of the tool’s bearing surfaces. Furthermore, clean the tool between the installation of each RivNut, as RivNuts are easily overtightened and a smoothly operating tool will enable you to feel when each RivNut “bottoms out” and is fully secured.
Hammer the RivNut tool into one of the 1/2″ holes you just drilled. The fit of the RivNuts into the 1/2″ holes is tight, which will help to prevent the RivNuts from turning once they are tightened. When hammering, try to get the flange of the RivNut as flush as possible to the body panel, but do not hammer so hard that the body panels greatly deform. A slight amount of deformation of the sill panels is inevitable and normal.
While using a spanner to hold the large nut on the RivNut tool stationary, tighten the head of the bolt of the RivNut tool. The tightening action of the bolt will pull the tip of the RivNut toward the flange, and the RivNut will collapse and expand into the 1/2″ hole. RivNuts are very flexible and it is very easy to over-tighten them. If you are careful while turning the ratchet tool and you have a clean and lubricated RivNut tool, you will feel the RivNut bottoming out after full expansion. Do not tighten the RivNut beyond this point.
Before installing a RivNut for real into your vehicle, you may want to perform a dry run and try expanding a RivNut without inserting it into your vehicle (several extra Rivnuts are included with your rock sliders for practice runs. During the dry run, observe how the RivNut collapses and expands, and try to obtain a feel both for how much torque is required to expand the RivNut and when the RivNut bottoms out.
You must also install the RivNut into the rearward portion of the rock slider. Note that the areas of the body panels immediately surrounding the RivNuts are deformed inward from hammering in the tight RivNuts. This is normal and not a cause for concern, as tightening the rock sliders fully will pull the RivNuts outward.
Refit the rock sliders to the vehicle using all four of the RivNuts you just installed. As you will be fitting and removing the rock sliders several times during installation, dispense with the lock washers at this stage and use only the 5/16″ bolts and flat washers. Use of the flat washers at all times is necessary to protect the finish on the rock sliders. Before tightening the bolts fully, be sure to remove as much vertical slack between the rock sliders and the vehicle’s sills. There will also be enough play between the holes in the rock sliders and the bolts to permit a slight amount of fore and aft adjustment. Fit the sliders exactly as you wish them to be mounted, for you will soon drill more holes using other holes on the rock sliders as guides. With the rock sliders secured and properly adjusted, you are ready to begin drilling the holes for the RivNuts that will secure the underside of the rock sliders.
Using a 3/8″ bit, drill through the six holes in the underside of the rock sliders.
Undo the four bolts securing the rock sliders and remove the rock sliders from the vehicle.
Using a 1/2″ bit, enlarge the six 3/8″ holes you just drilled into the underside of the vehicle’s sills.
Using the same techniques as with the four RivNuts into the side of the sills, install six RivNuts into the underside of the vehicle’s sills.
Refit the rock sliders to the vehicle using the four bolts on the side RivNuts and the six bolts for the underside RivNuts. The rock sliders are now securely fastened to the vehicle. In fact, many other rock slider designs incorporate the same amount of bolts that you have just installed.
Your rock sliders, however, incorporate an L-shaped underbelly slider that is secured to the rock sliders with six large bolts. When the six large bolts are tightened, the rock sliders and underbelly sliders form a sandwich and tightly clamp the vehicle’s sill areas. To mount the underbelly sliders, you will have to drill more holes.
With the rock sliders securely fastened to the vehicle, use a 1/2″ drill bit and drill through the remaining holes in the side mounting plates of the rock sliders.
Here is a view of the forward mounting plate with all holes drilled out.
The six holes you just drilled will accommodate the six large bolts that will eventually protrude through the inner wall of the vehicle’s sills and to which the underbelly sliders will affix.
To drill completely through the vehicle’s sills, use the furnished drill bit guide. The outer diameter of the shank portion of the guide is 1/2″ to fit tightly against the 1/2″ holes you just drilled. The guide also has a wide flange to ensure that the holes you drill with the guide are perpendicular to the surface of the rock sliders’ side mounting plates.
The inner diameter of the guide is 1/4″ in diameter to accommodate a long 1/4″ drill bit, which you will need to drill a guide hole through the inner wall of the vehicle’s sills.
Insert the guide into the 1/2″ holes you just drilled and press home so that the flange of the guide sits flush against the rock sliders’ mounting plates. Using a long 1/4″ bit, drill through the inner wall of the vehicle’s sills. Repeat this step with the remaining five 1/4″ holes in the vehicle’s sills.
Using a 1/2″ drill bit, enlarge the 1/4″ holes in the inner walls of the vehicle’s sills. If you do not possess a long 1/4″ drill bit, remove the rock sliders again to get the clearance required to reach the inner wall.
Before reinstalling the rock sliders, test the fit of the underbelly sliders by inserting the six bolts into the holes you just enlarged.
Here is a view of the tips of the six bolts as they protrude through the inner wall of the vehicle’s sills. To these bolts, the underbelly sliders will attach.
Test fit the underbelly sliders to the six bolts. If the underbelly slider will not accommodate all six bolts, you drilled one or more of the six holes at an angle rather than perpendicular to the rock sliders’ side mounting plates. If one or more of the holes in your inner wall are misaligned, use a coarse round file to ovalize the holes to the proper orientation.
When you are able to fit the underbelly slider to all six bolts, you are ready for final assembly of the rock sliders.
Refit the rock sliders to the vehicle. This will be your final fitting of the rock sliders to the vehicle, so be sure to fit the lock washers as well the flat washers to the six underside bolts at this time.
For the four topmost bolts on the rock slider mounting plates, check for proper clearance before fitting both the flat washers and the lock washers. Fitting both washers will help prevent loosening of the securing bolts, but some doors may contact the heads of the bolts if both washers are fitted. If your doors contact the heads of the bolts when both washers are fitted, fit only the flat washers and you should not have any contact between the bolt heads and the doors.
With the four small bolts fully secured, insert the six large bolts with flat washers beneath the bolt heads.
Fit the underbelly slider to the tips of the six bolts using both the flat washers provided. Do not over-tighten, but be sure to check and double-check all six bolts for sufficient tightness as what was once a tight bolt will no longer be tight when the bolts flanking it are tightened fully.
On the Discovery Series II, refit the plastic threaded cap to the stud protruding from the side of the vehicle’s sills. The threaded stud protrudes enough that a barefooted passenger could get injured or tear his trouser leg on the stud.
For the Discovery Series II and if you are so inclined, refit the front mud flap to the vehicle’s under-body using the three hex nuts. Obviously, you cannot refit the two wood screws that previously secured the mud flaps to the plastic sills.
The fit of the mud flaps to the rock sliders is decent and fairly integrated.
Repeat the above steps for the other side of the vehicle and your installation will be complete.
We recommend that you remove your rock sliders at least twice a year to permit removal of any debris that may have accumulated between the rock sliders and your vehicle’s sill areas. Cleaning and application of corrosion inhibitors like waxoyl or another undercoating will inhibit corrosion in the critical sill areas under your vehicle.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN! UNASSEMBLE THE SKID PLATE FROM THE FRAME. THE SKID CANNOT BE INSTALLED ASSEMBLED.
If installing an RTE Welding & Fabrication front bumper skid plate after the installation of the RTE Welding & Fabrication bumper, first remove the bottom-most horizontal bolts (pictured below) from the frame on both sides of the bumper.
Place the skid plate frame in between the bumper mounting brackets with the skid plate removed. The plate should be oriented so that the mounting holes (bumper to frame) are at the front of the car and the flat surface of the frame is facing you. Install bottom bumper bolt through the skid plate frame AND install 2ea ½”x 13 x 1 ½” bolts in the bottom holes. Once all the bolts have been installed, tighten them all.
Install the aluminum plate that was removed for installation of the frame.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN — DO NOT USE AN IMPACT ON THESE BOLTS.
Your spare tire adapter plate is custom made to lift your spare tire according to your tire size.
Remove your spare tire from the carrier. Place the adapter plate on the 3 lugs using the 3 holes with the large counterbore and secure by the 3 furnished thin lug nuts.
At this time you will notice the 3 original lug bolts extend beyond the face of the adapter plate. Mark the 3 lugs flush to the face of the adapter.
Remove the adapter plate and either saw or grind the 3 lugs off slightly below the mark. Take a flat file and remove any burrs left.
Assemble the plate back onto the 3 lugs tightening the 3 thin lock nuts (1 1/16”) securely as they need not be removed from this point. Place the spare tire onto the adapter plate lugs and screw on the Stock lug nuts. Tighten appropriately for your spare tire.
Turn wheels to full right lock position.
Install chassis plate on the outside of the chassis. Note: The top bolt requires a flat washer between the bracket and chassis.
Assemble damper to Drag Link Bracket.
Insert stem end of damper into the Chassis Bracket and secure.
Compress damper to within 3/8” and clamp Damper Bracket to Drag Link finger tight only.
Mark ends of Drag link Damper Bracket, turn wheels full left lock.
Check for movement on Drag Link damper Bracket, if no movement is detected tighten securely. If movement is detected repeat the steps.
- 4 Aluminum Spacers
- 8 3/8”x16 bolts
- 16 Flat Washers
- 8 Lock Washers
- 8 Nuts
Remove nuts and bolts from factory sway bar frame bracket during suspension lift. Leave the sway bar links attached to the sway bar/ axle.
Install the spacer between the sway bar bracket and the frame bracket after suspension lift installation is complete. Use supplied hardware and tighten to spec.
Note: RTE recommends retaining the factory sway bar front and rear for on road/ public road usage.
Remove original cotter pin and nuts from steering linkage being replaced.
Using a pickle fork, remove the factory linkage. If a pickle fork is not available, carefully hit the sides of the steering knuckle casting with a hammer until the tapered tie rod end pops free. Do NOT hit the steering linkage or the tie rod end directly.
Remove factory tie rod ends from original linkage and install supplied jam nuts onto the ends.
Install the new tie rod/ drag link and adjust for alignment. Once alignment has been set, tighten jam nuts. Jam nuts MUST be tightened.
On DII trucks the factory adjuster is used on one end.