Product Information

Miscellaneous questions about RTE products

  • This is a very good question and one we get a lot when ordering lift kits.

    First of all, RTE Welding & Fabrication’s exclusive Caster Corrected Swivel Balls will return the steering precision to your Range Rover Classic, Defender 90 or Discovery I.

    Due to the design of the Rover front axle, caster and pinion angle were previously inextricably linked.  Twist the axle up for increased pinion angle and the caster would suffer.  With lower pinion angles, driveline vibrations are often a consequence, in some cases, even with a CV style driveshaft.

    Now, proper pinion angle for CV style front driveshafts can be achieved to eliminate driveline vibrations with RTE Welding & Fabrication HD Radius Arms and the caster can be reset to factory specifications for unmatched steering quality with Caster Corrected Swivel Balls.   The simply is no better solution available anywhere.

    On lift heights of 3” and greater, match RTE Welding & Fabrication HD radius arms with Caster Corrected Swivel Balls for the perfect driveline setup.  Eliminate vibration AND return steering caster to spec!

    For 2” lifts, Caster Corrected Swivel Balls alone will return your vehicle to factory specifications without causing any driveline vibrations BUT is not required.

  • We no longer sell the 2″ lift kit since we stopped selling shock absorbers.  You can still purchase the springs but you will also need to purchase a set of shocks.  There are some other things to consider so it would be best to give us a call at 704.635.7305 or contact us via email.

  • There are various combinations when selecting our lift kits, so it would be best to consult with a member of our team. Please contact us at 704.635.7305 or via email.

  • We actually get this question a lot (hence the FAQ).  Springs/springs spacers vs. a body lift – here are the differences:

    • Body Lift Pros – does not affect any suspension components ie. shock lengths, par hard bar locations, sway bars, brake lines or alignment.
    • Body Lift Cons – Bumpers do not match body ie. bumpers are mounted to frame and body will be lifted up 2″ allowing a 2″ gap.
    • Spring/Spring Spacer lift Pros – simple to install
    • Spring/Spring Spacer lift Cons – does affect all of the suspension geometry in minor ways – we recommend replacing shocks in the very least. As you raise the frame due to spring lift anything that goes between the frame and axle assembly’s are affected ie. the pan hard bar attaches to the frame by the steering box and runs to the axle on the right side at an angle – when you raise the suspension it pulls the axle to the drivers side causing the truck to “dog track”, no this is not an entirely bad thing but compound that with brake lines, ABS lines, Castor, Pinion angles, Sway bars, Drag link. The bottom line here is – none of the items mentioned will make a huge difference in your truck.

    Yes it is a very common practice throughout the Rover community to lift the truck 2″ with just springs and shocks ( just as I did in the beginnings) without affecting the drivability to much, but then again this simple modification allows us to just start to utilize the true ability’s of our truck and by doing that, we know it just will not drive like it did when all it saw was asphalt or a minor gravel road years ago.

  • We hear this a lot.  The main reason is that we handcraft all our products (bumpers, sliders, pan hard rods, shock towers, etc).

    We typically keep most of the smaller items on the shelf but for the larger items such as sliders and bumpers, we make those to order. Some folks want a wider nerf or a shorter slider and others may want something special on their bumper. We can accommodate all these requests because we do not stock these items on the shelf. We will even handle changes to the smaller items such as a pin-to-pin connection for a Steering Damper Relocation Kit (typically these are loop to loop).

    There are pros and cons to doing business this way but in the end, you, the customer, get exactly what you want.

  • We get a ton of questions about powder coating.  Most are centered around chipping and rusting.  Powder Coatings resist cracking, peeling, and chipping.  Powder coat is abrasion, corrosion and chemical resistant.  This does not mean that it will not crack, peel, chip, scratch, or corrode.  It just means that it is more resistant than some other finishes.  There has been a misconception that powder coat is crack, chip, peel, abrasion, corrosion, and chemical proof.  That is sadly not the case.  Powder coating is stronger than paint but given the environment, it is subjected to, it can only resist so much.

    Also keep in mind the environment that your product is subjected to (for example, a front bumper).  Driving down the highway at 55+ mph, a small stone can hit the bumper.  Yes, it will most likely cause a chip.  If left unprotected, that small exposed area will then rust.  If the rust is left alone, it is like cancer and will slowly erode away at your bumper’s finish.  It is imperative that any scratches or chips are protected.  All you need to do is get a can of Satin finish black paint and cover the exposed area (Rustoleum works best).  This seals the exposed area to prevent further corrosion.

    Again, painting over the exposed area is not 100% foolproof.  It really depends on your environment.  If the bumper is constantly exposed to salt and road grime, you need to check it periodically to prevent any further damage.  We would love to offer a finish that would stay pristine from day 1 but sadly that is not possible.

    Powder coating is durable and long-lasting in part due to how it is applied.  Unlike paint, powder coat is applied as a dry powder with a small electrostatic charge that holds the powder to the metal.  It is then baked in an oven which caused the coating to “gel” (or melt) into a smooth, consistent, smooth coating.  Since it is applied dry, you do not have to worry so much about drips and runs.  This process creates quite a durable finish but it is not bomb-proof.  The durability of the finish resists failure in “normal” service use.  For example, a lawn chair that is powder coated will most likely not chip.  Unfortunately for our products, they are subjected to scraping over rough surfaces, impacted by stones and other debris at highway speeds, road salt and other chemicals (for those living in ice/snow areas), etc.

    In short, powder coating gives consumers one of the most economical, long lasting and most color durable quality finishes available. Powder coated surfaces are more resistant to chipping, scratching, fading and wearing than other finishes. Colors will stay bright and vibrant longer than paint but keep in mind that it is only resistant.  The powder coating finish also requires a bit of maintenance.  The maintenance will depend on geographic location and what your subject your product to (off roading for example).  Just use good judgment.  If you see a chip or scratch, paint it to prevent further issues.  Also periodically clean your finish with a rag, soap, and water.

Have a question that is not answered?  Just drop us a note and we will get it posted on our site.